Unit 1 Definition, History and China’s Cosmetics Market 001 Chapter 1 Definition and History 001 1.1 Definition 001 1.2 History 002 Chapter 2 China’s Cosmetics Market 007 2.1 Market Overview 007 2.2 Market Competition 009 2.3 Sales Channels 010 Unit 2 Nomenclatures of Cosmetic Ingredients 013 Chapter 3 Brief Guide to the Nomenclature of Inorganic Chemistry 013 3.1 Stoichiometric or Compositional Names 014 3.2 Complexes and Additive Nomenclature 016 3.3 Stereo Descriptors 023 3.4 Summary 024 Chapter 4 Brief Guide to the Nomenclature of Organic Chemistry 027 4.1 Introduction 027 4.2 Substitutive Nomenclature 027 4.3 Creation of Systematic Names 028 4.4 Characteristic Groups—Suffixes and Prefixes 029 4.5 Parent Compounds, Parent Hydrides 030 4.6 Seniority of Parent Compounds 034 4.7 Numbering of Parent Compounds 037 4.8 Functional Class Nomenclature 038 4.9 Specifying Configuration of Stereoisomers 038 4.10 Chemical Abstracts Service (CAS) Names 039 4.11 Graphical Representation 039 Chapter 5 A Brief Guide to Polymer Nomenclature 041 5.1 Introduction 041 5.2 Basic Concepts 041 5.3 Source-based Nomenclature 041 5.4 Structure-based Nomenclature 043 5.5 Nomenclature of Inorganic and Inorganic-Organic Polymers 045 5.6 Traditional Names 045 5.7 Graphical Representations 046 5.8 CA Index Names 046 Chapter 6 International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients 048 6.1 What Is INCI? 048 6.2 Why INCI? 048 6.3 INCI Basics 048 6.4 INCI and CAS 050 6.5 INCI Labeling 051 6.6 What INCI Is Not 051 6.7 Applying for an INCI Name 051 Unit 3 Introduction to Common Cosmetic Products 053 Chapter 7 Decorative Cosmetics 053 7.1 Primers 053 7.2 Concealers 054 7.3 Foundation 056 7.4 Rouge, Blush, or Blusher 056 7.5 Bronzer 056 7.6 Highlighter 057 7.7 Eyebrow Pencils, Creams, Waxes, Gels, and Powders 057 7.8 Eyeshadow 057 7.9 Eyeliner 058 7.10 False Eyelashes 058 7.11 Mascara 059 7.12 Lip Products 059 7.13 Face Powder, Setting Powder, or Setting Sprays 059 7.14 Nail Polish 060 Chapter 8 Skincare Cosmetics 062 8.1 Cleansers 062 8.2 Toners 063 8.3 Hyperpigmentation Treatment 064 8.4 Facial Masks 064 8.5 Moisturizers 065 8.6 Barrier Cream 065 8.7 Sunscreens 066 Chapter 9 Hair Care Cosmetics 069 9.1 Shampoos 069 9.2 Hair Conditioners 071 9.3 Hair Sprays 072 9.4 Permanent Waves 072 9.5 Hair Dyes 072 9.6 Bleaching Agents 074 9.7 Hair Waxes 075 9.8 Relaxers 075 9.9 Hair Straightening 075 Chapter 10 Perfumes 078 10.1 History 078 10.2 What Are the Different Types of Perfume? 078 10.3 How Is Perfume Manufactured? 079 10.4 What Are the Ingredients and Chemical Structures of Perfume? 080 10.5 Why Is Perfume Used? 081 10.6 What Are the Adverse Effects of Perfume? 081 10.7 What Is the Difference Between Perfumes Marketed to Males and Females? 082 10.8 What Do the Terms ‘Fragrance-Free’ and ‘Unscented’ Mean? 082 Unit 4 Ingredients in Cosmetics 084 Chapter 11 Oils 084 11.1 Natural Oils 084 11.2 Synthetic and Semi Synthetic Oils 088 11.3 Mineral Oils 094 Chapter 12 Surfactants 097 12.1 Composition and Structure 097 12.2 Classification 097 Chapter 13 Thickeners 105 13.1 Low Molecular Weight Thickeners 105 13.2 Polymeric Thickeners 105 Chapter 14 Ingredients of Moisturizers 110 14.1 Occlusives 110 14.2 Humectants 111 Chapter 15 Colourants 116 15.1 Inorganic Colourants 116 15.2 Organic Colourants 117 Chapter 16 Sunscreen Agents 122 16.1 Organic UV Filters 122 16.2 Inorganic UV Filters 122 16.3 Hybrid UV Filters (Organic/Inorganic Agents) 123 16.4 Botanical Agents 123 16.5 Safety and Health Hazards of Sunscreen Agents 124 Chapter 17 Skin Whitening Agents 127 17.1 Hydroquinone and Its Derivatives 127 17.2 Retinoic Acid or Tretinoin or Vitamin A Acid 128 17.3 Alpha Hydroxy Acid 128 17.4 Ascorbic Acid and Its Derivatives 130 17.5 Retinol and Retinaldehyde 130 17.6 Arbutin and Aloesin 131 17.7 Glabridin 132 17.8 Kojic Acid 133 17.9 Azelaic Acid 133 17.10 Some Lesser Known Extracts or Molecules for Skin Lightening 134 Chapter 18 Anti-aging Agents 138 18.1 Vitamin A, Vitamin E and Coenzyme Q10 138 18.2 Peptides 139 Chapter 19 Preservatives and Antioxidants 152 19.1 Preservatives 152 19.2 Antioxidants 155 Unit 5 Regulations on Cosmetics 159 Chapter 20 Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics in China 159 20.1 Introduction 159 20.2 CSAR and Its Regulatory System 160 20.3 Definition, Scope and Classification of Cosmetics 160 20.4 Management of Cosmetic Ingredients 163 20.5 Technical Requirements about Safety and Efficacy 164 Chapter 21 Legislative Aspects of Cosmetic Safety in the European Union 168 21.1 Introduction 168 21.2 The Requirements of the EU Regulation 168 21.3 REACH and the Classification, Labelling, and Packaging (CLP) Regulations 172 21.4 Specific Restrictions 172 Chapter 22 The United States’ Regulatory Approach to the Safety and Efficacy of Cosmetics 174 22.1 What Kinds of Products Are “Cosmetics” under the Law? 174 22.2 What Does the Law Say about the Safety and Labeling of Cosmetics? 175 22.3 Does FDA Approve Cosmetics Before They Go on the Market? 176 22.4 Who Is Responsible for Substantiating the Safety of Cosmetics? 177 22.5 Can FDA Order the Recall of a Hazardous Cosmetic from the Market? 177 22.6 What Actions Can FDA Take Against Companies or Individuals Who Market Adulterated or Misbranded Cosmetics? 177 22.7 Can FDA Inspect Cosmetics Manufacturers? 178 22.8 Does FDA Test Cosmetics or Recommend Testing Labs? 178 22.9 Do Cosmetics Firms Need to Register with FDA or Get an FDA License to Operate? 178 Unit 6 Formulations, Technologies, Analyses and Packaging of Cosmetics 180 Chapter 23 Formulations, Technologies and Analyses of Cosmetics 180 23.1 Example 1: The Manufacture and Analyses of a Cream Formulation 180 23.2 Example 2: The Manufacture and Analyses of a Suncream Formulated with Thermal Spring Waters from Ourense (NW Spain) and Sargassum muticum Extracts 183 23.3 Example 3: The Manufacture and Analyses of Several Hair Conditioner Products 185 23.4 Example 4: The Manufacture and Analyses of Lipsticks, Lip Balms and Skin Creams Containing Alkenones 188 Chapter 24 Cosmetic Packaging 195 24.1 Description 195 24.2 Purpose of Cosmetic Packaging 195 24.3 Packaging in Multiple Layers 196 24.4 Standards and Regulations 196 24.5 Environmental Aspects 197 Unit 7 Safety Testing, Efficacy and Sensory Evaluation of Cosmetic Products 199 Chapter 25 Safety Testing of Cosmetic Products 199 25.1 Introduction 199 25.2 Regulatory Requirements for Cosmetics Safety Assessments 200 25.3 Genotoxicity Assessment of Cosmetic Products 203 25.4 Skin Sensitization Assessment of Cosmetic Products 204 25.5 Endocrine Properties Assessment of Cosmetic Products 205 25.6 Assessment of Dermal Absorption of Cosmetic Products 206 25.7 Skin and Eye Irritation Assessment of Cosmetic Products 207 Chapter 26 Efficacy of Cosmetics 208 26.1 Evaluation of the Day and Night Creams 208 26.2 Clinical Study of Safety and Skin Efficacy of the Day and Night Creams 209 26.3 Statistical Analysis 211 26.4 Results and Discussion 211 Chapter 27 Sensory Evaluation of Cosmetic Products 214 27.1 Example 1: Sensory Evaluations of Personal-care Products Formulated with Natural Antioxidant Extracts 214 27.2 Example 2: Sensory Evaluation of a Suncream Formulated with Thermal Spring Waters from Ourense (NW Spain) and Sargassum muticum Extracts 218 Unit 8 Biotechnology Applied to Cosmetics 222 Chapter 28 Active Ingredients Obtained by Biotechnological Processes 222 28.1 Growth Factors 223 28.2 Enzymes 223 28.3 Stem Cells 225 Appendix Ⅰ: Names and Symbols of Selected Elements 227 Appendix Ⅱ: Multiplicative Prefixes 228 Vocabulary 229